COAST TO COAST 2011
i am planning to walk the coast to coast in september 2011,as it says i am still in the planning stages and looking for any helpful advice, hoping to camp all the way across so any great camping tips and sites would help.
i have started buying kit and equipment.
vango 65+10l
great bag for wild camping but not big enough for wild camp and the full coast to coast hike will be shopping around for a larger capacity bag
pro force 85l
yerp its my new bag,finally dropped on a bag that the side pockets expand outwards and not into the bag, large carrying capacity in the hood area, fully waterproof,abs for different size torso`s and only £39:95 bargin
kit for coast to coast
yerp all this into my new pro force bag weighing in at 18.5 kg.
clothes:-berghaus pro shell jacket,berghaus delugue trousers.shorts,trousers x2,base layers x 2,underwear x4,socks x4,gloves x1,hat x1, fleece x1.
first aid kit,safety blackets,compeed blister plasters,sun cream.any medication.
food:-jaffa cakes,simmer soups x8,dolmio sources x2,dolmio pasta x2,ready made chocolate x10,sports mixtures.
maps and navigation:- coast to coast east and west,compass,gps.
gadgets:-camera,solar charger.most important a mobile phone.
water purification tablets,travel tap,water bladder.
cleaning equipment:-tooth brush,soap,washing up liquid,towel (microfibra),body spray,talc powder.
cooking:-primus eta stove,pan, spork,knife and fork,plate and cup,dish,lighter and flint gun.
air mat-hi gear,hi gear flannel pillow,apex ledge 500r sleeping bag.
tent-terra nova wild country trisar.
extras;cord,straps,walking poles,headlamp
clothes:-berghaus pro shell jacket,berghaus delugue trousers.shorts,trousers x2,base layers x 2,underwear x4,socks x4,gloves x1,hat x1, fleece x1.
first aid kit,safety blackets,compeed blister plasters,sun cream.any medication.
food:-jaffa cakes,simmer soups x8,dolmio sources x2,dolmio pasta x2,ready made chocolate x10,sports mixtures.
maps and navigation:- coast to coast east and west,compass,gps.
gadgets:-camera,solar charger.most important a mobile phone.
water purification tablets,travel tap,water bladder.
cleaning equipment:-tooth brush,soap,washing up liquid,towel (microfibra),body spray,talc powder.
cooking:-primus eta stove,pan, spork,knife and fork,plate and cup,dish,lighter and flint gun.
air mat-hi gear,hi gear flannel pillow,apex ledge 500r sleeping bag.
tent-terra nova wild country trisar.
extras;cord,straps,walking poles,headlamp
wild country trisar
this is the inner tent,can be used without the outer weather permitting
wild country trisar
as you can see very spaceous,can fit 3 people in at a push
wild country trisar
this is the out tent not all the guy lines are in use but 9 are available if required.a very sturdy tent,
wild country trisar
porch area for boots and bags and any other kit,dont use this area for cooking.firstly the tent is not fire proof secondly the build up of carbon monoxide whilst cooking could end up in the tent,this can kill.
coast to coast,the walking,places we stayed,views and people we met on the way.
Thursday lunch time boarded the train to st bees.backpack already feeling rather heavy,met jim at leeds train station only two more trains to board now,we arrived at st bees at 1800 ,walked up to the campsite and booked in .was directed to the far end of the campsite as far away from any services as possible.we set up our tents got my tent up pretty easy but jim was still at it 20 mins later i was thinking to myself that this would be a problem later on in the walk up in the mountains.
it was time to get some food so we went across to the pub had a couple of beers and a curry nothing special, ar well back to the tents and some shut eye.we were probably in our bags about 1 hour when we were awoken by the sound of 2 vans trying to sneak pass our tent.i unziped my tent only to be confronted with 2 bloody ford transit headlight.i will not go into the details of what happened next.
the next morning breakfast made and then all kit packed away and off down to the beach.
dipped the feet and picked up a pebble and safely stored away, a few photo`s then off we go.
heading north towards the light house camera`s at the ready,what a beautiful day,already starting to meet new friends two young lads from leeds met.tom and joe.these guys had only got the bear essentials not even cooking pans these guys were hoping to drop on a shop that sell these items.
it was time to get some food so we went across to the pub had a couple of beers and a curry nothing special, ar well back to the tents and some shut eye.we were probably in our bags about 1 hour when we were awoken by the sound of 2 vans trying to sneak pass our tent.i unziped my tent only to be confronted with 2 bloody ford transit headlight.i will not go into the details of what happened next.
the next morning breakfast made and then all kit packed away and off down to the beach.
dipped the feet and picked up a pebble and safely stored away, a few photo`s then off we go.
heading north towards the light house camera`s at the ready,what a beautiful day,already starting to meet new friends two young lads from leeds met.tom and joe.these guys had only got the bear essentials not even cooking pans these guys were hoping to drop on a shop that sell these items.
these guys set off at a blistering pace jumping over stiles whilst myself and jim were having to climb up to the second rung so that we could get through the kissing gates,you will probably understand when you see the size off our backpacks.
still heading north pass the lighthouse an in and out up and down the coves passed the quarry.at the quarry turning inland heading for sandwith and moor row.
still heading north pass the lighthouse an in and out up and down the coves passed the quarry.at the quarry turning inland heading for sandwith and moor row.
Moor row our first oasis.ie bakers.
cleators then over dent moor sign posting up to this stage very poor,i know if your taking on the c2c you should have some reasonable level on navigation i am not speaking for myself but the holiday backpackers who try to navigate with a A to Z.
going up through the woods and to the top of dent moor is a real lung buster especially with our large packs on.but well worth it.here you the real first look at whats to come, The lake district.
our first night stop over was Low cock how farm,a fantastic little farm.we pitched our tents on their back lawn.there was cooking facilites on site.washing and shower.
Day 2 16 mile or so.
set off about 8am heading towards ennerdale bridge about a mile down the road weather fine,was adviced to go to the north side of the lake due to the recent rainfall the southside would be rather poggy.this turned out to be the right choice,a nice steady walk around the lake then on to the forest track
cleators then over dent moor sign posting up to this stage very poor,i know if your taking on the c2c you should have some reasonable level on navigation i am not speaking for myself but the holiday backpackers who try to navigate with a A to Z.
going up through the woods and to the top of dent moor is a real lung buster especially with our large packs on.but well worth it.here you the real first look at whats to come, The lake district.
our first night stop over was Low cock how farm,a fantastic little farm.we pitched our tents on their back lawn.there was cooking facilites on site.washing and shower.
Day 2 16 mile or so.
set off about 8am heading towards ennerdale bridge about a mile down the road weather fine,was adviced to go to the north side of the lake due to the recent rainfall the southside would be rather poggy.this turned out to be the right choice,a nice steady walk around the lake then on to the forest track
right this was the point where we got our heads down and started marching to our next oasis the black sail hut.and when i said oasis i meant it,one of britians youth hostels open all the time and to all walkers.refreshment are available and payment by a honesty box.great idea so dont abuse it
we spent about 30 minutes here refreshing and nursing our feet by this stage i reckon we had 1/2 doz blisters apiece.compeed must be rubbing their hands together thinking profit. r well thats my first complaint
when setting from here go to the back of the hostel and find the path heading towards the hilloc`s when you reach the tounge beck turn left and head up this path i think this beck was loft beck.nice and steady does it and this point any slips trips or falls at this point and your in for a long wait for any help. once safely at the top the veiws are to die for.looking back down ennerdale water.buttermere and over towards the scafells
when setting from here go to the back of the hostel and find the path heading towards the hilloc`s when you reach the tounge beck turn left and head up this path i think this beck was loft beck.nice and steady does it and this point any slips trips or falls at this point and your in for a long wait for any help. once safely at the top the veiws are to die for.looking back down ennerdale water.buttermere and over towards the scafells
continued over the top and around the side of grey knotts on to the old railway line down to honister slate mine by this time the old feet were on fire,a little bit tender,so a break was in order.the next stop was stonethwaite via johnny`s wood the campsite was as far up stonethwaite beck as possible we were assured that this was a good campsite,this was a big white porky,we got to the campsite with a sign saying NO PARTIES,NO CAMPFIRES, NO NOISE AFTER 11PM. NO LOUD MUSIC.NO BALL GAMES.
about 2am we finally got to sleep.
DAY 3
We were up at 7:30am packed and away for 8am we hadn't realised that we were on the wrong side of the beck and couldn't get across without going part way up Langstrath beck,there is a bridge to get over then back down the beck to be able to cross another bridge to start the hike up greenup gill to greenup edge,at this point we had an opertunty to see the different wild life ie pine martins.
up on the tops it was blowing a gale but claer as a bell.you could see for miles.we took the lower route down into grasmere for refreshment and a restock of plasters and food for the evening and breakfast.
the intention was to camp at grisedale tarn but conditions were that bad that we couldnt pitch the tents there.we finally got pitched at ruthwaite lodge
about 2am we finally got to sleep.
DAY 3
We were up at 7:30am packed and away for 8am we hadn't realised that we were on the wrong side of the beck and couldn't get across without going part way up Langstrath beck,there is a bridge to get over then back down the beck to be able to cross another bridge to start the hike up greenup gill to greenup edge,at this point we had an opertunty to see the different wild life ie pine martins.
up on the tops it was blowing a gale but claer as a bell.you could see for miles.we took the lower route down into grasmere for refreshment and a restock of plasters and food for the evening and breakfast.
the intention was to camp at grisedale tarn but conditions were that bad that we couldnt pitch the tents there.we finally got pitched at ruthwaite lodge
whilst collecting water noticed this and explored
the night was very intresting with winds up to 45mph were the tents going to be able to cope with the battering.well of course they did.
the next morning bacon sandwiches and streaming hot cups of tea.set off about 8am down towards patterdale.a beautiful morning.
we needed to stock up on knee supports and what ever else you could name,luckyly we dropped on a store which sold everything it was like going into arkwrights shop in open all hours.run by an american couple.i spent a fortune,we got our pack lunches sorted,went outside and who should pull up in the car but rory and is wife,have i not mentioned rory.well we first dropped on rory as we were coming over from black sail hut towards honiter mine.a gem of a guy navigating his way using a martin wainwright guide.he come racing past us as if we were stood.we introduced our selfs then he shoot off down the old railway line towards honister mine thought we might never see him again at the rate of pace he was going.
well as i said he and his lovely wife mary pulled up and dropped rory off and then offered to take our bags to shap,well me and jim looked at each other and was thinking the same thing.sod the bags we will get in.ha ha ,only joking so we kinda took them up on the offer,sorted a day bag out then put our big packs on the back sit,you should have seen the rear end go down.but we were glad not to have to carry the large pack over kidsty pike to shap.well rory was well up for this as we were and its away we went.
first stopping point angle tarn this tarn is breath taking
the next morning bacon sandwiches and streaming hot cups of tea.set off about 8am down towards patterdale.a beautiful morning.
we needed to stock up on knee supports and what ever else you could name,luckyly we dropped on a store which sold everything it was like going into arkwrights shop in open all hours.run by an american couple.i spent a fortune,we got our pack lunches sorted,went outside and who should pull up in the car but rory and is wife,have i not mentioned rory.well we first dropped on rory as we were coming over from black sail hut towards honiter mine.a gem of a guy navigating his way using a martin wainwright guide.he come racing past us as if we were stood.we introduced our selfs then he shoot off down the old railway line towards honister mine thought we might never see him again at the rate of pace he was going.
well as i said he and his lovely wife mary pulled up and dropped rory off and then offered to take our bags to shap,well me and jim looked at each other and was thinking the same thing.sod the bags we will get in.ha ha ,only joking so we kinda took them up on the offer,sorted a day bag out then put our big packs on the back sit,you should have seen the rear end go down.but we were glad not to have to carry the large pack over kidsty pike to shap.well rory was well up for this as we were and its away we went.
first stopping point angle tarn this tarn is breath taking
Haweswater the Res
this was the view coming down from kidsty pike to the back of haweswater and yet still another 8 miles to shap.i wouldnt say it was a easy walk and the midges were starting to bite.when we reached burnbanks at the other end of haweswater we needed to give our feet some attention out came the compeed plasters and pain killers.well 15 minutes rest and we were off again,now we could see a clear change in the terrain we were covering now.rolling fields and cows,always keeping an eye out as most had calfs the hardest obsticles now was getting over the styles with the legs being so tired.jim managed to get a signal on his phone.and made a comment about not being able to put his tent up tonight.so he started to phone for accomodation in shap luckyly the kings arms had a room,so he books us in their or should i say his wife booked us in their.thanks adele.we arrived at shap at around 7;30pm and our accomodation was,yes you guessed it at the other end of the village.
we set off marching down the village and dropped on mary,rorys wife what a star she was.we said our thanks to mary and rory for the great help,rory explained that they needed to be off because they had arranged to eat out,but not to atempted to take our big packs tomorrow they would pick them up see us in kirkby stephens,we quickly agreed and said our goodbyes.
we got to our accomodation stinking like 2 otters,turned a few heads when we got got into the bar area,i dont know whether it was the sizes of our packs or the fact that we stunk,so we laid it on a bit.booked in had a pint and ordered some food.whilst the food was being prepared we got a quick shower. and freshened up came back down had another couple of pints then off to bed.
around 3am we both were awakened to the sound of bells ringing,no not church bells but the fire alarm.we couldnt make our minds up wether we were dreaming or it was real,well we got some gear on and started to make our way down into the carpark we were meet by the landlord on the steps ,saying it was a false alarm.so back to bed we went.
we awoke around 7:30 freshened up then down for breakfast.i will be honest we pigged out on cereals and a full english ,loads of toast and what ever else was on the table.we retired to the room and got our day packs sorted with wet weather gear ,food and plasters.when i said day packs we used our exped drybags
we set off marching down the village and dropped on mary,rorys wife what a star she was.we said our thanks to mary and rory for the great help,rory explained that they needed to be off because they had arranged to eat out,but not to atempted to take our big packs tomorrow they would pick them up see us in kirkby stephens,we quickly agreed and said our goodbyes.
we got to our accomodation stinking like 2 otters,turned a few heads when we got got into the bar area,i dont know whether it was the sizes of our packs or the fact that we stunk,so we laid it on a bit.booked in had a pint and ordered some food.whilst the food was being prepared we got a quick shower. and freshened up came back down had another couple of pints then off to bed.
around 3am we both were awakened to the sound of bells ringing,no not church bells but the fire alarm.we couldnt make our minds up wether we were dreaming or it was real,well we got some gear on and started to make our way down into the carpark we were meet by the landlord on the steps ,saying it was a false alarm.so back to bed we went.
we awoke around 7:30 freshened up then down for breakfast.i will be honest we pigged out on cereals and a full english ,loads of toast and what ever else was on the table.we retired to the room and got our day packs sorted with wet weather gear ,food and plasters.when i said day packs we used our exped drybags
Day 5
the start of the c2c was right opposite our lodgings,we left our large packs for mary and rory to pick up and we would meet them in kirkby stephens. we set off about 9am the latest start so far, at the same time a young lady joined us asking if we were doing the c2c ,we exchanged names ,this was pam for tazmania.lovely lady and great company but at times just broke out into laughter perhaps she was laughing at me and jim when we started to complain about our feet, any way moving on we reached the m6, then a quarry we made our way towards orton ,when we got to orton scar we turn left to scar side farm where tea and scones were on the menu.welooked towards each other and said it would be rude not to call in and sample a few.the break was welcomed ,its a must for anyone,when leaving be careful not to take a wrong turn and follow the sign left.go through the five bar gate and head for friar biggins keep to the road and head towards sunbiggin.we had a laugh at this point someone before us obviously had enough of carrying their accomodation and left it on the wall.
SMARDALEGILL VIADUCT
we headed off passing sunbiggin tarn on our left over Ravenstonedale moor headed down towards the sheep fold we reached the road then headed up towards a green monitoring station/pump house following the wall side heading for begin hill which took us down towards smardale bridge over the bridge and if you are lucky you can see in the distance smardalegill viaduct a fantastic struture but could be missed if your not tall enough.by this time our legs were ready to drop off but we kept telling ourself not much further now when we crested smardale fell we first saw kirkby stephens railway station,our spirits started to lift and the pace got a little quicker not much but a little.we reached greenriggs farm and 10 minutes breather,we also managed to get a phone reception which was very helpful,we got hold of rory and ordered the drinks ,upon reaching kirkby stephens pam turned left her lodgings were only four houses down we turn right ,yerp up hill but to the pub and two pints that were starting to get warm.the croglin castle a true walkers bar. rory and mary were waiting and welcomed us along with guinness their dog.i think we had 3 or 4 more pints and then thanked rory and mary and offered to pay for the transfer of our bags,rory said dont be daft and said what yer doing for your evening meal.and invited us by to their caravan which just happened to be on the same site where we were camping tonight so we set up our tents washed up then knocked on the caravan door,we were welcomed in to a couple of pints and lamb chops,irish potatoes we also had a sweet but i cant remember what it was,sorry mary but it might have been the other 2 pints of beer and the 1/2 bottle of whiskey,well we were in a right old state.i think it was about midnight when we left,could i remember where our tents were pitched.well of course.best nights kip ive had in a long time.was up at 7am to freshern up but the old feet were very sore.when jim woke about 8am he had decided that was it for him,his knee had finally given up it turned out that he torn a ligiment at the side of his knee,the lad was gutted and i think he felt that he was letting me down,the truth was we tried to do too many miles in the first five days because of the schedule we had set,11 days with 22kg .dont feel bad jim just go back and complete it.
day 6
Frank`s bridge,we crossed this to depart from kirkby stephens
Bag all packed up and ready to go, rory came round and said the breakfast was ready,well i was gob smacked,these two people could not do enough for us,if only everybody were like this .rory joined me again on this leg of the c2c.we set set off around 10:15am at a nice steady pace pointing out the nine standard riggs,passing through hartley and crossing the beck,passed the quarry.reaching the riggs about 12:00 noon took a few photo`s then off again.
rory(Ruaidhri) at Nine Standard Riggs
now we knew the next section was going to be boggy,we had three choices of route we took the blue route and headed for craygill sike i think it was the right choice on hand to hop over four boggy areas,we had our lunch where craygill sike meet whitestone beck whilst watching the jets fly over,not bad lunch and a air show,what could top that.well the next stop was ravenseat farm for tea and scones with off course cream and jam.got a fantastic welcome from the young lady and kids.she mentioned that they were filming again for the dales (it going to be on in feb)
park house
camped at park house just before you get to keld ,cost me £22 for camp evening meal,pot of tea,and in the morning a bacon and egg bagette plus a pot of tea plus a packed lunch.didnt think that was bad at all.a new couple had just taken over the place.facilities were spot on,washing machine,showers,camping bunks if required and a barn for having a get together and having a chin wag.
DAY 7 KELD ---HALF WAY POINT
down the hill from keld lodge into keld,turned right down towards the river and over the timber bridge which crosses the river swale,the first veiw that its you is east gyll force a lovely spot .
the path spirals round to the left over the top of the force,following the path along the side of the valley up towards crackpot hall.
continued on up the path following the contours of the valley on to swinner gill lead mine
the path spirals round to the left over the top of the force,following the path along the side of the valley up towards crackpot hall.
continued on up the path following the contours of the valley on to swinner gill lead mine
CRACKPOT HALL
up bright an early this morning ,the weather very changable, wash shave and a new set of plasters,a bacon baggette and a big pot of tea all curterys of our host.paid my dues and picked up my packed lunch .tent packed away.
made my way up to the keld lodge and waited for rory.
made my way up to the keld lodge and waited for rory.
this section of the walk was a race against the weather,looking back towards keld the skies were black,we had a breif look at blakethwaite smelt mill at gunnerside beck this was the big industry of that time and the hike up to this point then having to do a shifts work must have been incredibly hard, we were just passing through those guys had to do it every day in all seasons.
we had a quick bite to eat inside the ruins then off again up and over the tops of melbecks moor mines,my it was bleak going over here blowing a gale and raining up hill.
heads down and marching passing level house bridge and old gang lead smelting mine finally reaching surrender bridge a lovely little spot for a picnic in sunny conditions,we had a brief rest here my feet again starting the play up,we spent about 20 mins here while rory gave me a quick history lesson.
roughly 6 km to go and the route not clearly marked.we made our way around calver hill
we had a quick bite to eat inside the ruins then off again up and over the tops of melbecks moor mines,my it was bleak going over here blowing a gale and raining up hill.
heads down and marching passing level house bridge and old gang lead smelting mine finally reaching surrender bridge a lovely little spot for a picnic in sunny conditions,we had a brief rest here my feet again starting the play up,we spent about 20 mins here while rory gave me a quick history lesson.
roughly 6 km to go and the route not clearly marked.we made our way around calver hill